As previously mentioned, day two in Athens was all about a day trip. We had booked the tour in advance through Get Your Guide, and let me tell you, it was an all-day affair. Knowing this, we came prepared – breakfast, snacks, drinks, the works. We were supposed to be picked up by our guide at another hotel in the city, but there was a slight hiccup – we were forgotten! 😂 But hey, someone eventually came to the rescue, and after a bit of bus shuffling, we were off, heading southwest towards the Peloponnes 😄🙋🏻♀️
And, of course, you can’t venture in that direction without bumping into Korinthos, so we got to check out the famous Korinthos Canal during a quick 15-20 minute pit stop. If you’re not familiar, this canal – 6,3 km long – is an engineering marvel that connects the Saronic Gulf with the Korinthian Gulf, cutting through the narrow Isthmus of Korinthos. It was something I remember hearing about in history class, and it was even more stunning than I’d imagined! 😃
We then continued our journey along the Saronic Gulf, making our way to Epidaurus, one of the most important healing centers in the ancient world, dedicated to Asclepius, the god of medicine. There, we spent an hour soaking up history at both the Epidaurus Archaeological Museum and the Epidaurus Theatre. Now, I vaguely remember my ancient history teacher raving about this theatre some 17-18 years ago, and I must confess, I thought he was exaggerating. But nope, dear old Steen Visti was spot on. The Epidaurus Theatre is mind-blowingly impressive, not just in how well-preserved it is, but also in terms of acoustics. As an audiologist and an acoustics geek, this was like hitting the jackpot – both for my eyes AND ears! 🤩 The theatre was designed with such precision that a whisper from the stage can be heard perfectly in the top row, some 55 rows up. It’s a masterpiece of ancient engineering. And you know what? The theatre is still in use! 🤩
After our hour in Epidaurus (which was nowhere near enough time, by the way), we hit the road again, this time toward Nafplío, a city that once served as the capital of Greece after the War of Independence in the 19th century. My expectations were low, but I was genuinely surprised by how charming and picturesque the city is. We got to “see” (from distance) the historic Akronauplía Fortress, which dates back to pre-classical times, and the Bourtzi Fortress, which sits dramatically on a small islet in the harbor of Nafplío, originally built by the Venetians. We also wandered through the city and grabbed lunch. Given the heat, our appetites weren’t exactly raging, but we stumbled upon the coziest café, Mitato Grill Restaurant. I had flatbread with tzatziki (because you can’t go wrong with tzatziki 😄😋), while A tried her first-ever gyros – and let’s just say, she was a fan 😄
With Nafplío in the rearview mirror, we set off for Mykene, one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece, home to the ancient Mycenaean civilization, which dates back to the 16th century BC. This place is legendary, literally, as it’s linked to the tales of the Iliad and the Trojan War. We visited the Treasury of Atreus, also known as the Tomb of Agamemnon. It’s an enormous, beehive-shaped tomb, or “tholos,” built around 1250 BC. The tomb was discovered by the archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann, who, in his excitement, declared it to be the tomb of Agamemnon, the legendary king who led the Greeks during the Trojan War. However, as with many early archaeological discoveries, Schliemann’s enthusiasm got ahead of the facts – there’s actually no evidence linking this tomb to Agamemnon 😅 Despite the misidentification, standing inside this massive structure, you can really feel the weight of history – both figuratively and literally, given the immense stones used to construct it!
Then we moved on to the Palace of Myrene, the heart of the ancient city. And the famous Lion Gate! 🦁 I remember hearing about it in class, and thinking those stones must be unbelievably huge. I even discussed this with one of my colleagues. Spoiler: They’re not, but they do have a fascinating story. The Lion Gate is the main entrance to the ancient citadel, and it’s the oldest monumental sculpture in Europe, dating back to around 1250 BC. The gate features a relief of two lions (or possibly lionesses), which was originally believed to symbolize power and protection for the city.
Now, here’s where it gets really interesting – the stone used for the relief isn’t local to Greece. It’s made from a type of limestone that was imported – or let’s be honest, probably stolen – from Africa. This material is not native to the Mycenaean region, which adds a layer of intrigue to how and why it was chosen. The relief itself is about 3 meters (10 feet) tall and sits above the gateway, supported by a massive lintel stone that weighs an estimated 20 tons. The sheer size and weight of these stones make it clear why ancient visitors were in awe of the Mycenaeans’ engineering skills. Even today, the Lion Gate remains an impressive sight, though perhaps not as gigantic as my younger self imagined!
With our sightseeing adventures complete, we were driven back to Athens. The drive was non-stop, which was perfect because most of us passed out for the entire trip back 😂 But that nap was just what we needed to rally for dinner. We were in the mood for pizza, and after a bit of research, we found Granello, just a few minutes’ walk from our hotel. Real Italian pizza, simple and absolutely divine. Seriously, it was some of the best pizza I’ve ever had. I, of course, went for a Vegetariana; Rosolata sauce, mozzarella, zucchini, mushrooms, red onions, and pesto. Oh my god, it was so good! 😍😍😍😋😋
After devouring that heavenly pizza, we freshened up with cold showers and were so re-energized that we decided to relax at Syntagma Platea. We just sat on the steps, people-watching and soaking in the atmosphere. What I love about A is that she’s just like me. We can sit in comfortable silence, enjoying each other’s company without feeling the need to fill the air with chatter 😅😌 It was peaceful and cozy 😌
After a while, we got the itch to find a rooftop bar, and as luck would have it, there was one nearby: Bar 8 at Hotel Grande Bretagne. The hotel’s décor was already pretty impressive when we walked in, so we knew the bar had to be top-notch. And it was. Amazing views of the Panathenaic Stadium, the Acropolis, and beyond, plus delicious drinks to boot 😍
I started with a super tasty mocktail, a Fruit Punch, and followed it up with a low-alcohol drink—though the name escapes me now, it was refreshingly delightful. A perfect way to end the day: a cozy atmosphere, beautiful views, and the most stunning full moon to top it all off 😍