During our visit to Jaffna in 2003, we missed out on exploring the historical attractions. We visited a few temples like Nainativu Nagapoosani Amman Kovil, Sannadhi, Nallur, and Tellippalai. It was a bit disappointing as we stayed at our paternal aunt’s home, and unfortunately, none of them suggested any sightseeing spots. It felt like the most uneventful part of our trip, and I started to wonder if Jaffna was just inherently boring. Upon returning to Denmark, I turned to Google and stumbled upon numerous fascinating places in Jaffna, which left me slightly annoyed, to say the least! 😅
However, dwelling on the past won’t change a thing. Thankfully, the beauty of the future lies in the opportunity to revisit and explore. This time around, I was thrilled to spend some quality time in Jaffna. Yet, as it turns out, two days is simply not enough to uncover all its wonders!
We were in a hurry, as we had to leave for Colombo that evening after the wedding, so we quickly went to the hotel after the lunch and changed. My brother was tired, so he took a nap, while I decided to wander around in Jaffna to buy some delicacies and to see Jaffna Fort (which my brother went to the previous day while I was sick).
I was initially a tad anxious about exploring Jaffna solo, but it turns out, that worry was completely uncalled for! Jaffna stands out as one of the safest spots in Sri Lanka, with Tamils everywhere (no surprises there!) and a welcoming vibe that invites friendly chats with everyone. Walking around felt like being at home, especially as a Tamil myself. One of the things I absolutely cherished was the opportunity to support the local community by purchasing goods from their shops. It was incredibly gratifying to contribute in my own way.
So, there I was, hopping into a tuk-tuk on a mission to reach Jaffna Fort. I ask the young driver, “Can you take me to Jaffna Fort?” To my surprise, he responds with a puzzled look, “What’s that?” Me, persistently repeating, “Jaffna Fort, you know, that big fort!” (in Tamil). Despite my efforts, he seemed stumped, so I resorted to using Google Maps for directions. Finally arriving at the destination, he chuckles and says, “Oh, this? We call it the Dutch Koattai (Fort), haha. You’re quite the jester, sis!” Glad we could share a laugh over the confusion. Quite an amusing chat with that guy! 😉
So, the Dutch Fort or Jaffna Fort – located near the coastal village of Jaffna, Gurunagar – was originally built by the Portuguese back in 1612 during their invasion of Jaffna, but only as a 4 sided garnison, including a rampart, bastions and a moat. When the Dutch later arrived, they captured the fort in 1658, and expanded the fort into a pentagon and a plenty of attachments, including fortifications, a church, and a prison (and much more). Later, in 1795 the fort was captured by the British, and there were additionally some renovations.
Jaffna Fort stands today as a remarkably well-preserved testament to a rich history. However, delving into its past evokes a sense of anger within me. It reminds me of the atrocities of colonization, where indigenous people suffered torment and loss at the hands of those who deemed themselves superior. The echoes of this history stir frustration and a yearning for a world where such injustices cease to exist. We often claim to have learned from history, yet the reality begs to differ. The world, despite its purported progress, still witnesses conflicts and wars in some corners, perpetuating suffering and turmoil. It leaves me pondering: have we truly imbibed the lessons of history and embraced the essence of compassion and understanding that humanity so dearly needs?! 🫤🤔
Just a thought. If you ever visit such sites that were part of a colonization, just think about it 🫡
